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As part of my effort to eat more locally grown fresh fruits and vegetables (the “real food” part of Real Food in Moderation), I’ve now changed my pattern to follow what I consider to be a French approach to grocery shopping. Rather than stocking up on tons of food that will keep for weeks, if not months (or for Twinkies, years), I shop every few days for the fresh things that I should be eating, including (gasp!) bread, which should really be eaten fresh, without preservatives. This goes for cheese, milk, and meat as well, and its working - I got on the scale this morning, and I’m now over the 22 lb mark for the year, all while eating what I would have considered indulgences before, like fresh bread, high quality full fat ice cream, and good bacon, all in moderation.
(Little Ed. side note: While you may consider the Twinkie shelf-life thing to be a bit of an urban legend, I had a writing teacher who had a packaged Twinkie in his garage from his time in Vietnam - and after 17 years, it remained mold-free.)
I learned this practice of shopping for less quantity but more often firsthand on a visit to Paris, which I’ve briefly described here, and have since confirmed it time and again with friends who have lived in France for long periods and in different locations. For example, in France it is very common to make a daily stop at the local bakery (boulangerie) on the way home to pick up a freshly baked baguette. In fact, often the neighborhood boulangerie will have a line out the door a little after 5PM, when the evening’s selection is fresh out of the oven.
The best part of this practice? The French have an informal custom of twisting and tearing off le quignon (literally, “the crust”), or what we think of as the heel of the loaf and eating it on the way home, freshly warmed by the baker’s oven. (For a great article on the joy of le quignon, see David Lebovitz’s wonderful description, here.)
So rather than opening that .99 cent oversized “single serving” of Doritos and a 44oz fountain drink of Pepsi, they satiate all of the senses with a bit of bread - incredibly delicious bread, warm and indescribably soft, with a crackle when its is torn off that to me, is the sound of comfort for the centuries of my ancestors literally breaking bread together. When I twist and tear off that heel, and then begin to savor it, I can hear the collective satisfied sigh of hundreds of years of my predecessors who had the same sense of overwhelming satisfaction when eating bread.
Once home, the baguette is generally immediately eaten as part of the evening meal since it is at its peak of freshness. If the whole loaf is not used, the remainder is wrapped in a towel and saved for the following morning to be toasted and spread with butter or soft cheese.
There are few more sumptuous things than a small bit of fresh, crusty baguette with butter, brie, or camembert, accompanied by a warm cup of coffee with cream.
Of course, I can already hear the readerly clamor: “How do you have time to do that? How do you afford it? Do you not have kids? A life? A job?” — All valid questions. To answer those and many more, and to provide suggestions on how you can implement this in your life (and why its important), I’ll be posting a series of articles next week on how to shop for better quality, more often - without breaking the bank.
It is much more possible than you might think, and you may actually save money.
Ed. note: I took these photos this morning of a baguette from Grand Central Bakery in Portland. Grand Central is one of the best local sources of breads and baked goods in the Pacific Northwest, and well worth a visit.